Archive for September, 2009
Nikon has proven its reputation among professional photographers, being the top choice for many of them. Don’t expect a Nikon professional digital camera to be inexpensive, but be sure that you are paying for quality, durability, functionality and reputation.
The first Nikon cameras entered the market during the early days of film photography, and were using optics from Zeiss, a German optical maker that produced some of the absolute best camera lenses. Around the middle of the 20th century, Zeiss-Nikon lenses were the standard for professional quality lenses throughout the world. Nikon’s reputation in the camera market quickly reached the top mainly thank to their excellent line of Nikon professional digital cameras.
At the time when other camera makers were quickly occupying the digital camera market, Nikon wanted to make sure it made the conversion right with their biggest base relied on a Nikon professional digital camera. As market forces changed, Nikon also tries to give amateur photographers the opportunity to have the quality professional use in a Nikon professional digital camera.
Nikon produced less expensive units of their professional digital camera, that became available for serious amateurs and those that stick to a particular brand name. Nikon’s reputation as a top camera maker is unparalleled in the photography world.
In August 2006, its amazing line of five Coolpix camera models strengthened their position at the top, and a Nikon professional digital camera became affordable to regular folks. All models can be found between $200 and $400 and they all have a five-star rating from consumers. The rating encompasses issues such as ease of use, dependability, quality of pictures among others. Their goal is to enable amateurs to have the same photo experience as those using a Nikon professional digital camera.
The Nikon D80, costing around $1,000 is not considered to be a Nikon professional digital camera, but shares many of the features. Improved auto-focus and interchangeable lenses make it an amateur’s dream. It boasts 10.2 mega-pixels, wider flash range and longer battery life.
The Nikon professional digital camera D2X is packed with all possible features, which most amateurs will hardly use in a lifetime. At $5,000, this camera has it all and does it all, being every photography enthusiast’s dream.
Some DSLR cameras now offer multiple exposure modes. These include the Nikon D3, D300, D2H, D2x, D200, and D80, the Pentax K10D, and *istD, Pentax Optio 550, and the Fujifilm Fine Pix S5, S3, S2, and S1. This may not be a complete list so check your camera manual to see if your camera has this option.
While you can combine multiple captures using layers in Photoshop and other imaging software, there a several advantages to being able to combine exposures in camera as you are able to do with film. The Nikon D300 uses raw data from the camera’s sensor and can combine the information/data from up to 10 exposures into one file. This eliminates the need to work with the layer opacity and blending mode of multiple files and provides smoother image integration with less effort. By using the auto gain function there is no need to adjust individual exposures after setting the initial aperture and shutter speed.
While it is possible to use a fixed focal length macro lens when capturing multiple images, a zoom “macro” lens provides the advantage of not having to adjust the camera or flower position with each successive exposure. For these photographs I used a Tamron 28-300mm AF Aspherical XR Di LD (IF) 1:3.5-6.3 Macro lens. While not a true macro lens it does provides a 1:3 reproduction ratio.
One of the key ingredients of successful multiple exposure photography is choosing a subject that lends itself to this process. Flowers provide a variety of shapes, tones, and contrasts that blend well in the final image. These attributes contribute to the unique photographs produced when employing multiple exposures. By employing the techniques discussed in this article you can achieve a luminosity and transparency that surpasses single exposure flower photography.
Setting a custom white balance (WB) is preferable to allowing the camera’s auto WB to determine the color temperature. By shooting in RAW format you can also adjust the WB after exposure to complement each image. If you experiment with WB settings you may achieve hue variations that will enhance the photograph.
A dark background provides a nice contrast to lighter colored flowers and also blends well with successive exposures. I use black seamless paper for most of the white, yellow, and pink flowers. It is a good idea to check the initial and final proposed zoom settings to see the proportion of flower and background in the frame. A technique that I like to use is to begin at the shortest focal length where a large amount of background is in the frame and then gradually adjust focal length with each exposure. Each successive zoom setting changes the focal length until reaching the maximum extension. If we use the 28-300mm zoom as an example the total change from shortest to longest focal length is 272mm. Let’s assume that we will record 10 exposures. Our first exposure will be at 28mm and our last at 300mm so that leaves 8 exposures in which to divide our range. Using a little approximation for ease of focal length positioning, this calculates to settings of 28, 60, 90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240, and 300mm for the 10 exposures. Sometimes rather than adhere to strict divisions I just look through the lens and adjust the zoom according to what appears to look good to me as I record each exposure.
You can also begin at the closest zoom setting with the flower filling the frame and then gradually zoom out. It is important when using this technique to begin with camera quite close to the flower. In the case of the Tamron 28-300mm lens, the shortest distance that lens can focus to is approximately 19 inches. The zoom is then adjusted in successive increments such that at the final exposure the flower nearly fills the frame with just a little of the background showing.
The final image produced using multiple exposures is often difficult to visualize. One of the advantages of digital is the capability to review the photograph immediately after capture and make any adjustments to camera and flower positioning.
Lighting is just as important in multiple exposure photography as it is in single exposure photography. I am fortunate to have a skylight that provides a diffused light source to the flowers. If it is necessary to use strobes I would recommend using umbrellas or a soft box to preserve the textural details of the flowers.
Because of the length of time needed to take multiple exposures in the manner described above, it is necessary to control positioning of the flower, camera, lighting, and background.
Because when I start I don’t know exactly how long I will be photographing an individual flower, I like to use fresh water prepared with some plant food which most flower stores will give you for free when you purchase the flowers. If the photo session stretches into several days as you come up with new ideas you will be thankful you provided the flower with some nourishment!
I begin by leveling the surface upon which the flower will be placed. It is a good idea to start with a fairly long stem on the flower and to place the flower in a vase which provides a stable support. By leaving a long stem you can photograph the flower from below which provides a unique perspective that I have seldom seen in flower photography as most people concentrate on the petals, pistil, and stamen from either the top or side. With the flower supported and on a level surface you can rotate the vase to achieve any angle that you wish. As the flower is rotated the illumination on the petals changes as well as the position relative to the camera lens. Many different shapes and contrasts can be obtained by employing this technique and often a very abstract pattern can result that can be quite appealing. By rotating the flower about a singe point a spiral effect can be achieved.
The use of a tripod is highly recommended to stabilize the camera. I would also recommend using mirror lockup/exposure delay and a remote shutter release or self timer. Position the tripod at the height for the first photograph and level the camera. It is also a good idea to position the angle of the camera lens parallel to the plane of the flower, and if maximum depth of field is desired to adjust the aperture to f/16 or f/22. Generally I photograph in aperture priority mode.
I hope that these suggestions and guidelines provide a good starting point for your exploration of multiple exposure photography.
Photography and travel photography in particular have been a passion of mine for a long time and now I would like to share some of the most important stuff I’ve learned over the years with our dear readers. I started with a Nikon EM SLR making mostly slides and upgraded to digital in 2002. The SLR had served me very well but I realized I could cut the cost of photography to almost nothing with digital technology. Making dozens of shots of the same subject means you’re bound to have a good one eventually! Only a couple of years later I discovered the benefits of image editing software like Photoshop.
Enough history, let’s move on to my tips. In this article I assume you have some experience with (digital) photography already and I concentrate on the specifics of “shooting on the road”.
First, choose the right equipment. I like a semi-pro camera with a fixed lens and long zoom. The Panasonic Lumix series for example has exceptional value for money. Best travel photos happen fast. Most of the time you don’t have time to change lenses. Fixed lens also means you have fewer problems with dust. I always keep my camera on auto-focus and auto-exposure. Remember, best photos happen fast. You can lose the action and/or the right light in seconds. Gone forever!
Also, have a decent quality back-up. I like my second camera to be quite small. If you get invited to a party usually nobody objects to photos taken with a small innocent looking “toy-camera”. The same goes for temples, gatherings etc. However, do respect other people’s privacy and local customs.
A small light-weight tripod is useful for night/sunrise/sunset photography. Make sure it folds into your day-bag.
Secondly, learn to use your equipment at home before you travel. Know it inside out. Practice, practice, practice. When you get that once-in-a-lifetime shot you don’t want to ruin it by fiddling with your camera.
Also, read a few good books about photography in general and also on digital shooting techniques. Read them again and practice different techniques.
Ok, so now you’re on the road. You see something captivating. Start shooting! Shoot a lot, maybe 10-20 shots of the same subject. Vary angles, shoot from distance and go closer, by foot or with your zoom. Where is the light coming from? What is essential for the shot? How to compose the shot? If you have done your homework, it helps.
Photographing people: This is a sensitive issue. Basically, you should always ask first. Even pointing at your camera and looking like a question mark is usually enough and you get a positive nod. If you are told “no”, respect it. You’ll find lots of people who actually want you to take their picture. If you talk with people, maybe show them some of your shots on your LCD they often get relaxed and trust you. Hang around later and you can shoot all you want. They might even pose for you voluntarily.
Photographing landscapes: Put your camera on aperture-priority and experiment with different apertures. Do you want a full depth of field or bring out details focusing on something interesting and using a wide aperture setting? If you shoot early in the morning or just before sunset you can get a much livelier and a more “three dimensional” photo because of the shadows. This is especially important for rural landscapes as fields of any crop look really flat without shadows.
Some maintenance tips: Remember that moisture, salt and dust are real digital camera killers! If the conditions are difficult keep your camera in its bag until the last moment. Take your shots, wipe out any visible moisture and dust (carefully!) and put your camera back in its bag. If it starts raining heavily, wrap your camera bag in a plastic bag. When you get back to your hotel, clean your camera at once. Don’t give corrosion a chance. Take out the battery, memory card and everything else that comes off. Clean everything, preferably with a camera care kit. Don’t forget to wipe the lens and filters. Fully charge your batteries and delete unwanted shots to free space on the memory cards.
You get home and download the treasure to your hard-drive. Now begins, at least for me, the most rewarding phase. But wait a second! Calibrate your monitor first. Many monitors ship with calibrating software. If yours didn’t, most image-editing software come with something similar. If everything else fails, just use your eyes! Do pictures on this or any other site look natural to you? Adjust your monitor’s brightness and contrast if necessary.
Make a hard-copy of your photos on CD/DVD and start playing with image-editing tools. Delete really bad shots. Copy the best ones to a different folder and edit them to your liking. I like to crop my photos a lot to bring out what is essential in every photo. Also adjust colours, shadows etc. Print on paper, put on your website or upload to Flickr or some other photo sharing site for everyone to enjoy and comment on.
Done! Can’t wait for the next trip… Practice more, read books, seek information over the internet, maybe join a camera club, attend photo exhibitions, even have your own? Ask at local libraries, shopping malls etc if they allow you to post your pics.
This is the equipment I use currently.
1. Primary camera: Panasonic Lumix DMZ-FZ30 , a real bargain these days with its 12x Leica lens, 8 MB and excellent usability
2. UV filter to protect the front lens of the camera
3. Polarizing filter for shooting early in the morning and late in the evening
4. Manfrotto tripod . These are widely regarded as the best
5. Camera bag
6. Lots of 2 GB SD memory cards and spare batteries
7. Plastic bag to protect my camera when it rains
8. Camera cleaning kit
9. Backup camera: Nikon Coolpix 3200
10. Photoshop for image editing
The following are the best photography books in my opinion. I really like Lee Frost’s clear no-nonsense writing and step-by-step approach to showing you things.
Lee Frost’s Creative Photography Handbook covers photography in general from basics to advanced issues, giving you lots of sound advice on composition, using light and other essential stuff. This book is a must if you want to learn from the master.
He has several other books published as well. I particularly like The A-Z of Creative Digital Photography which is all about digital shooting techniques as well as lots of very useful Photoshop hints for polishing your photos. Some other tips show you how to make really weird, yet interesting creations using Photoshop’s filters. I’ve had many days of fun with this book!
Thank you for reading!
Is it possible to get amazing pictures from a cheap digital camera? Buying a Nikon Coolpix L11 Digital Camera is certainly not going to break the bank. It’s currently selling for about $90 at a number of online retailers. But, can you get great pictures out if it, or will it bring you nothing but heart ache and lousy pictures. Let’s take a look at some of the less appealing features of the Coolpix L11 by Nikon, and find out.
One of my biggest complaints with digital cameras and digital camera manufacturers, is the exclusion of an optical viewfinder. Sure, we all love the cool factor of having a nice big LCD screen to view pictures with. But, not if a larger LCD means sacrificing a viewfinder. Especially on a camera the eats batteries like the Coolpix L11. Having a viewfinder, means you can still take pictures, even with dying batteries. It’s a bit of a vicious circle… bigger LCD = no space for viewfinder = batteries die sooner… and no user option to switch to viewfinder mode.
The other problem with a big LCD screen on a low priced camera, is the quality of the screen. The LCD on the L11, is somewhat grainy, but usable when used indoors. At least it’s quite readable. Going outdoors however is a different story. There is technology to make LCDs readable in bright sunlight, and it works great. I have it on my marine grade GPS chart plotter, but that’s an $800 toy. Trying to view the LCD on the Coolpix L11 on a sunny day, is next to impossible. An optical viewfinder, would of course resolve this problem (see earlier complaint).
The power saving feature, while a good idea for the L11, was not implemented very well by Nikon. The camera tends to take about a minute to shut off, when it decides it’s no longer being used. During that time, you can’t stop the shutdown, and even powering it back on, is not the most intuitive process.
A typical complaint with pretty much every camera in this price range, and even $100 more, is the big lag time between taking pictures. Primarily caused by the flash recharging, and the camera taking a long time to save the last photo to the memory card. You can get faster memory cards, and stronger batteries, but they won’t make much of a difference. Some of the faster memory cards cost almost as much as the Nikon Coolpix L11. Your better off just getting a better camera.
As if I haven’t given you enough reasons to stay away from buying a Nikon Coolpix L11, here’s a few more to ponder:
- main settings dial is too small and susceptible to operator error
- night pictures or low light pictures turn out very grainy
- the flash is not effective beyond a range of six feet
- USB connector cable is non standard (micro USB)
- older model Coolpix 2100 actually performs better
- color accuracy suffers on indoor pictures
To say that Pentax digital cameras are at the top of the waterproof digital camera market when it comes to the needs of the casual picture taker would not be going overboard. Who doesn’t want to be able to snap plenty of photos while on vacation or at special events?
If you are not a professional photographer or even an amateur photography enthusiast you are likely not looking to spend a large sum of money to purchase an expensive digital camera that is loaded with a bunch of features that you really have no interest in.
Optio W30 is the premier waterproof brand of Pentax digital cameras. While these digital cameras will not be taking any high definition photographs hundreds of feet beneath the ocean they will however take fantastic underwater photos up to a depth of ten feet underneath the water.
The closest competitor to the waterproof line of pentax digital cameras offers a digital camera with the capability of takeing underwater pictures up to a depth of thirty-three feet. This model of waterproof digital camera is much more expensive then the more reasonably priced Optio W30 making it a much smarter purchase.
A depth of between 31-34 feet would be excellent for a shallow water snorkeling experience, unfortunately those that enjoy scuba diving are not likely to be attracted. Digicams that use waterproof casings are an alternative for those that may be requiring more advanced equipment. If you are simply looking for a great waterproof digital camera that is affordable and easy to use then you will be more then pleased with what the waterproof line of Pentax digital cameras can provide for you. An Optio W30 provides great additional value to consumers as it takes fantastic pictures both in and out of the water.
Those that are looking for a great quality digital camera will be more then pleased with the level of resolution that the Optio W30 will give them. The waterproof line of Pentax digital cameras is extremely popular due to it’s affordability making in a great alternative to the pricier lines of high end waterproof digital cameras. The Optio W30 facilitates great quality close up pictures through having a 6x optical zoom in additional to face recognition and macro photography capabilities which allows the picture taker to capture their subject as close as a half inch away.
When you are changing the batteries or removing the memory card in the Optio W30 you need to do so with care, making sure that your hands are completely dry as the accessories in this digital camera are not covered by the waterproof function.
I have to admit the Nikon D40 is an impressive point-and-shoot digital SLR. Particularly if you compare it to it’s siblings the Nikon D80 and the Nikon D200. You get many of the features of the D80 for quite a bit less money and for this reason the D40 has literally replaced the D80. Reviewers have pointed out that one of the D40’s shortcoming is the D40 doesn’t autofocus with non-AF-S lenses, it does however work with old pro AF-I lenses.
That’s not the reason I’m not going to buy the Nikon D40 though. Nikon chose to leave out one feature that creates a bigger problem, at least for me…
There is an emerging frontier in digital photography known as High Dynamic Range (HDR). In HDR photography you take a minimum of three images with three different exposures, one that is normally exposed, one that is 1 stop underexposed, and one that is 1 stop overexposed. Because you are taking three separate photos and ultimately merging them into one photo, they must be perfectly aligned.
To be able to pull off HDR with any reasonable amount of success one needs a camera that has the ability to do auto exposure bracketing. Which means once set and you press the shutter and the camera fires three shots with the exposure compensation incorporated into each photo. With the Nikon D40 you do have exposure compensation but each time you want to compensate exposure you need to do it manually. What this means is that to do HDR photography with the Nikon D40 you would need to use a tripod each and every time and manually (fiddle with the camera) to achieve the minimum three images necessary to create an HDR image.
Nikon chose to leave auto bracketing off the D40 feature set. The absence of this feature immediately cancels the Nikon D40 as a serious HDR candidate.
I would have bought this camera in a heart beat if only Nikon had included auto bracketing.
At Digital Camera Tracker we monitor pretty much every single review for most cameras on the market. For the Nikon D40 we’ve tracked over 30 reviews and not one single review has even made mention of the missing auto bracketing. Perhaps it is not important to everyone else but to us it was a deal breaker.
Nikon digital camera problems are few, but they do exist. Some users of the point and shoot Coolpix digital cameras have problems understanding or using the features and functions of the digital cameras. For a beginner, the cameras might be a little intimidating, but using the manual to understand all the different functions will eliminate the confusion.
As for poor picture quality, most of the problems stem from low light areas or imaging glare from bright lights. These problems are more of a user problem than they are the cameras problems. Most manuals have tips for shooting in different light settings that are very useful.
Nikons digital camera problems are few except for the functions. You do need to know how to operate a SLR camera or you will have poor picture quality. The SLR digital cameras are not for beginners. The user’s manual does take quite some time to read and understand all the features and functions of the camera. You will need to experiment with different setting and shoot modes before taking any professional pictures. For the most part, Nikon does not have many problems with their digital cameras.
Since Nikon digital camera problems are more user error than it is the camera, you would be wise to read the manual before operating any of the Nikon cameras. The cameras themselves are excellent cameras for the money. If you have battery problems, you might need to consult with a repair person to see if there is a problem with the batteries. Sometimes on the Coolpix digital cameras, the lens will not retract if the battery goes dead. This could present a problem, but can be corrected by an authorized Nikon repair person. Other than that, you will find that Nikon digital cameras are well worth the money and deliver quality images.
Good wildlife camera equipment on safari can make the difference between pictures you will be proud to show your friends and family when you get back and ones where it’s difficult to figure out exactly what you were photographing because it’s only a fuzzy black dot surrounded by green vegetation.
I take wildlife photographs for a living and I have had to quickly figure out what the best cameras and lenses are to get the job done effectively.
Digital or Film – Which is better for a safari?
Wild animals are very unpredictable. That’s one aspect of safari photography that makes it so exciting because you never know what you are going to get but this also means that the number of pictures you need to take to get a keeper increases.
And if you use film that can become very expensive whereas with a digital wildlife camera you can take as many as you want and then just delete the ones where the lion has ducked behind a bush, the cheetah has blurred because the autofocus locked onto a twig in front of it and the exposure of the hippo was way off because of the reflected sunlight in the water.
You can also make consistent use of bracketing to get the perfect exposures without worrying about cost or running out of film which can be a problem in certain remote areas of Africa where safaris take place.
So more is better in this case but what about quality? The fact is that digital quality is fast catching up to film unless you fall into the professional category and are going to be selling your safari pictures or entering them into competitions. In that case it might be better to stick to film because the trained eye will be able to spot the difference but in most other cases digital quality is more than adequate.
Digital also gives you valuable feedback while you are still on safari so that you can try and improve on that elephant picture with the ear cut off the next day. You also have a lot more control over the final product because you can use software like Photoshop to enhance and fine tune your pictures.
Digital SLR or Compact Wildlife Camera
A safari is the dream trip of a lifetime and it’s a great opportunity to get some fantastic wildlife pictures but it’s not necessary to buy the latest and greatest digital SLR and lenses to get them unless you are planning to take nature pictures for a living or are a serious photography enthusiast and are going to make regular use of the camera and lenses after the safari anyway.
The cost of a digital SLR wildlife camera is high compared to a compact but that is only half the story. The lenses that you need to purchase for decent wildlife photography often cost more than the camera itself making it a very expensive business indeed.
And a bulky camera body and multiple interchangeable lenses do add to the weight of your luggage and the inconvenience of carrying everything around with you.
Digital compact cameras on the other hand are not extremely expensive and the results that you can obtain from them are almost on a par with a digital SLR camera and you don’t have to worry about any additional lenses if the compact you buy has a decent zoom covering the range from 80mm to about 300mm. There are a few of them on the market that do have lenses like this and the range of the zooms increase every year.
And compact cameras live up to their name by being relatively small and light and one lens means no additional weight or carrying and no time wasted changing to another lens to suit the situation.
The Best SLR Digital Wildlife Camera for Nature Photography
If you have decided to go with a digital SLR then by all accounts the best one to purchase for wildlife photography at the moment is the Canon EOS 20D due to the blinding speed of its shutter release (near instantaneous) and its continuous shooting speed of 5 frames per second to a maximum burst depth of twenty three frames. It also powers up in next to no time at all.
This wildlife camera is as fast as you will ever need to freeze wildlife action and get the picture in the can before the animal moves off into the undergrowth.
There are other SLR cameras that are nearly as good like the Nikon D70 and the Pentax ist D so take a look at them too before making a decision.
The Best Compact Digital Wildlife Camera for Nature Photography
Canon comes up trumps again in the compact camera category with the Canon Powershot S2 IS. The factor that makes this camera ideal for safari wildlife photography is its huge 12X optical zoom lens (36 – 432mm equivalent) with a built in image stabiliser which cuts down on blur when using such a massive zoom lens.
A 5 megapixal sensor is more than enough to produce stunning safari images and as long as you can live with a slight shutter release lag and power up delay this compact wildlife camera is perfect for a safari trip.
Due to the drastic changes in the field of technology, the digital cameras have come very close to the people and are helping people to capture the most precious and valuable moments of their life.
Some years ago, people used ordinary cameras to take pictures. But, those are bulky and inconvenient to handle and were not high in their performance, quality and durability. These conventional cameras are replaced by the sleek and space-conscious cheap digital cameras that allow the users to store, to record, remove and edit the pictures according to their wish and is available at low prices in the market. These cameras come in a portable size that allow the users to carry it with ease wherever they go.
When it comes to the advantages of digital cameras, these cameras come with the most advanced features and offer multi-purposes to their users. These stylish and smart cameras come with memory card that enable the users to find zoom power, to adjust the options, to review the photographs, to check the battery, mega pixel count and use of flash. The higher mega pixels digital camera are offering the best, crystal clear and blur less images to the users. As the camera world technology develops day by day, the latest cheap digital cameras come with so powerful features that they can capture the clear pictures even in low light condition. These cameras offer seamless high performance and are well-known for their clarity, flexibility and price.
The present day market is flooded with numerous types of digital cameras with various features. The digital cameras manufacturer companies are taking efforts to provide the best and high-quality digital cameras at reasonable prices in the market. If you are looking for some of the best and cheap digital cameras, you can go for the Nikon COOLPIX S550 digital, Digital SLR Camera Nikon D700, Canon digital camera IXUS 80 IS, Canon Digital Camera – PowerShot A580 and Kodak easy share C613 Zoom digital camera. Before going to choose the high-performance digital camera, you should consider so many factors like image resolution, warranty, brand, price and after sales service. Among all the markets available in the present day the online market is the best one to get a good quality digital camera at a low price.
The present day market provides a wide range of choice to the customers to choose the cheap digital cameras to satisfy their needs. These cameras assist them to capture the photographs of their near and dear ones as well as to take video graphs for a long time
Recognizing a good digital bargain, is only part of the challenge. Knowing where to find them is the real trick. You could check the usual suspects. eBay or Craigslist perhaps? The problem is you and another million or so internet shoppers are thinking the same thing. Garage sales can be hit and miss, and chances are your buddy next door is not interested in selling his camera just because Sony and Canon have been unleashing new gadgets every other day. Don’t even think about buying from family, that almost never ends well. Unless of course you plan on leaving the country.
So, where and how does one go about find digital camera bargains? For starters look where no one else is looking. The best places, are usually the least obvious.
Amazon is not a bad choice, as most people think they only sell new stuff. The truth is, a lot of smaller independent sellers use their online site to move their inventory. There are plenty of used and discontinued cameras to found if you spend a little time surfing the site. The best part, is everything you buy is backed by the Amazon name, and their generous return policy.
A real hidden gem for bargains is discussion forums. There are all kind of forums related to digital cameras out there. Photography forums, Canon camera forums, Nikon camera forums, professional photographer forums, paparazzi forums, Pentax camera forums, nude photography forums, glamor photography forums, and so on and so on… Just Google around a bit and you’ll find them. Now because photographers are frequently upgrading their equipment, they often have older pristine condition camera gear to unload. These forums often have sell / trade / buy pages specifically for this purpose.